There’s some controversy regarding recent activity in Argentine Patagonia. Alpinist has the story, here. In short, a Red Bull sponsored athlete attempted to free the famed Compressor Route (VI, 5.10 A2) on Cerro Torre. A film crew was in tow to capture the attempt. Apparently the team drilled an additional 60 bolts into the Torre formation, including a direct rap line, and left 700m of fixed rope. This is the ugly side of climbing, the community is spraying every which way about it and I’m sure nothing will ever be resolved.
I have my own opinion and beliefs on style, I’m a product of learning to climb in an area with a lot of history and strong ethic when it comes to bolts (i.e. minimal). I don’t agree with this, and I also think it violates the larger global climbing ethic. Some of the power houses of alpine climbing have gone on the record as well to state their displeasure in this matter. It should be noted that US hardmen Josh Wharton and Zack Smith almost completed a bolt free ascent of Cerro Torre about 3 years ago. Talk about style, integrity, and commitment. That’s the style I respect and value, it’s rising to the mountain, not bringing the mountain to your level.
Regardless, I was not happy with what happened and since I can’t really do anything about it, I exercised my vestigial prerogative as a consumer in the land of the free and the Incorporated…I wrote a pious letter that won’t make a difference.
“I’m writing to express my extreme disappointment and disgust regarding the controversy related to Red Bull sponsored athlete David Lama’s activities in Argentine Patagonia. The controversy surrounding the addition of fixed hardware on the Compress Route on Cerro Torre is a testament to how little your company seems to understand about a community of its intended customer base. While statements have been made arguing that nothing illegal has transgressed, the difference between legality and morality is the real issue at hand. The fact that some of the most respected and accomplished international alpine climbers have spoken out publicly on the matter is testament to egregiousness of the offense against the ethics of the global climbing community.Even if the fixed hardware is removed, the rock will be forever marred for future climbers. This is unacceptable. As David Lama is a sponsored athlete of Red Bull and the trip was publicized by Red Bull, I hold Red Bull equally responsible in this matter as David Lama, Daniel Steuerer, and the film crew. As such, I will forgoe any and all future purchases of Red Bull or any affiliated product. In addition, I will encourage friends to follow suit in refusing to purchase Red Bull products. I don’t imagine that this will have any significant impact on Red Bull or its profits, but it is all that I can do, so I will do what I can to stand for something I believe in.”
I should probably mentioned, I’ve actually never had a Red Bull. I’ve gotten into Monster Khaos in the past year and half to get through late night drives. Lately though, I’ve been ditching Monster for Stewart’s Green Buzz after a friend of mine turned me on to it. Green Buzz is all natural; green tea, honey, caffeine and then the usual assortment of herbs and the “hippy shit” (ginseng, taurine, etc). Stewart’s is more of a local company for us (Saratoga Springs, NY) and they are a much better company (they treat their workers pretty well; benefits, retirement…not bad for a gas station gig).